PRESS RELEASE:
It’s a generally accepted fact that the only way to significantly increase your fuel range is to fit a long range fuel tank.

Yes, you can tweak your engine, and adjust your driving style to maximise your engine’s efficiency. However if you really want to travel further before stopping for fuel then a larger tank should be on your shopping list.

As an added bonus, they are often much better engineered and stronger than your standard tank and negate the need to carry bulky jerry cans which, unless they are able to be vented out of the cab, must be carried on the exterior of your vehicle which can mean a lot of weight right where you don’t want it.

While installation of a replacement fuel tank is certainly achievable by the average home mechanic, access to a hoist and other specialist equipment make it infinitely easier. A workshop will be able to do it quickly, neatly, and relatively inexpensively when you weigh up the time spent driving instead of lying under your truck.

We ducked down to Long Range Automotive in Lilydale and got the guys to show us how they go about building one of their replacement tanks for a diesel Toyota Troopy, and what exactly goes in to an installation.

1. LRA designs all its tanks in-house using AutoCAD Inventor, which is a common industry CAD program. The cutaway shows the internal baffles. They have also incorporated a chamber to cater for fuel expansion. All tanks are pressure-tested twice before fitting to make sure no annoying pinhole leaks show themselves on your first fill up.

2. The shapes of the separate tank pieces are then transferred on to a sheet of 2mm T125CQ (Commercial Quality) aluminised steel. This means that the steel that has been hot dipped in a silicon and aluminium alloy which makes it very resistant to rust yet maintains the qualities of hard-wearing steel at anything up to 800°C. So it’s perfect for fuel tanks.  The sheet is then cut out using the in house high-tech Farley computer-controlled (CNC) high-definition plasma profile cutter. This basically ensures that each piece fits together perfectly upon assembly and allows maximum weld penetration between the panels

3. The tank is then welded up using the trusty MIG and is etch primed and finished in a durable hammertone enamel to prevent rust rearing its ugly head. While it’s waiting to be installed, all outlets and inlets on the tank are temporarily plugged or have brass barbs fitted to ensure the tank remains clean and dust free. Check out the heavy-duty mounting brackets that are both stitch and rosette (plug) welded.

4. The first step of the installation process is to start removing the OE tank in preparation for its replacement. Careful attention must be used here. All electrics and fuel/breather lines are disconnected, with clamps being used on both the main fuel line as well as the return line to prevent diesel going everywhere. While most of us are content to use vice grips, the guys from LRA use purpose built clamps. A sign of their professional approach

5. Once all lines have been removed from the OE tank and secured out of the way, a transmission jack is used to brace the tank in position while all the bolts are undone. When the bolts are all out, the tank is lowered out from between the chassis rails using the jack. Makes you appreciate workshops eh? Imagine trying to do this on your back in the driveway while undoing bolts with your teeth and supporting that tank with your knees as you’re being showered in diesel! Thanks but no thanks.